Editor’s Note: This post has been updated for accuracy and relevancy. [Originally Published: May 2011 / Revised: July 2024]

Nanyuki is a little town with a huge responsibility on its shoulders. Besides being the terminus of the branch railway from Nairobi, it is also the main airfield of the Kenya Air Force, the training base of the British Army and a market centre for large-scale farms, ranches and, of course, an impressive number of game parks and wildlife conservancies.

With a population of 68,552 (2009) people, it is now the headquarters of the newly formed Laikipia County. The town derives its name from a Maasai word, ‘Engare nanyuikie’, which means the river of blood.

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The Maasai had a fierce inter-tribal confrontation along the banks of the Liki River a long time ago, as the story goes. The battle slaughtered many Morans, turning the river blood red, which led to the river being named “River of Blood” and later adopted as the name of the town.

British settlers started Nanyuki in 1907 during the early colonial days, and today, it serves as a popular base for people who want to climb Mount Kenya. Climbers and backpackers pass here on their way to or from the mountain along the Sirimon and Burguret routes.

Because of its proximity to the mountain, the town has many hotels including the famous Mount Kenya Safari Club and the Sportsman’s Arms Hotel. Just next to the Sportsman’s Arms is the Nanyuki Sports Club that shares a fence with the Agricultural Society of Kenya (ASK) grounds. The grounds also serve as a military training base for the British army.

Nanyuki has many great eating places, including the oldest one of them all – The Marina, which is now closed. Several years ago, someone opened a restaurant south of Nanyuki inside a huge tree. They named it the ‘Trout Tree Restaurant’ with its main attraction being trout prepared in several interesting ways.

Barney’s Bar & Restaurant at the Nanyuki Airfield, about 5 KM south of the town on the main Nanyuki-Nairobi road, is another popular eating place that opened in 2005. There is also the Simbas Lodge just near the Liki slum where you can treat your taste buds to nicely fried ‘kienyeji kuku’ (indigenous chicken) with fried potatoes.

Coming back to Nanyuki after many years, I see the town has transformed although you can still see some remnants of its settler past here and there. Shopping here offers a whole new experience with many of the convenience stores dating back to colonial times.

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Now, some big names in the supermarket industry are establishing themselves here, causing older stores like the Nanyuki Service Store or the Settlers Store to disappear. The Nanyuki Settlers Stores, established in 1930, used to be the go-to shopping place in Nanyuki. My parents would stop by the store after picking us up from school – Nanyuki Primary School.

The Equator line, which passes 6.5 KM south of Nanyuki, is a popular spot with tourists because of the supposed effect of the Coriolis force. The force makes draining water swirl clockwise or anticlockwise depending on whether one is in the northern or southern hemisphere but science shows this only happens in the lab, so what exactly happens at the equator if it is not the Coriolis force?

On the northern side of town, towards the Kenya Air Force base, is the Nanyuki Spinners and Weavers self-help group. The women here have gifted hands and make beautiful items to sell for a profit. Visitors can tour their workshops to see how they make the products, starting with carding, spinning, and coloring the wool, and then creating carpets, wall hangings, and other items.

Nanyuki sits on the edge of the massive Laikipia plateau, one of Africa’s most important wildlife conservation sites. The Ol Pejeta Conservancy, located 17 KM south of Nanyuki town, is a great example of conservation work. Here in the plateau, communities are encouraged to share their space with wildlife and learn to coexist together.

Did you know Nanyuki’s water is reputed to be the cleanest in Kenya? Its source is Mount Kenya from where it flows into the town by gravity.

Have you visited Nanyuki recently or lived there at some point? What was your experience? It would be nice to hear from you if you are currently residing there.

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