Nanyuki is a little town with a huge responsibility on its shoulders. Besides being the terminus of the branch railway from Nairobi, it is also the main airfield of the Kenya Air Force, the training base of the British Army and a market centre for the large scale farms, ranches and, of course, an impressive number of game parks and wildlife conservancies.
With a population of 68,552 (2009) people, it is now the headquarters of the newly formed Laikipia County. The town derives its name from a Maasai word, ‘Engare nanyuikie’, which means the river of blood.
A long time ago, the story is told, the Maasai had a fierce inter-tribal confrontation along the banks of the Liki River. Many Morans were slaughtered in the battle that turned the river blood red, hence the river of blood. This name was later adopted as the name of the town.
Nanyuki, which was started by British settlers in the early colonial days in 1907, is today a popular base for people seeking to climb Mount Kenya. Climbers and backpackers pass here on their way to or from the mountain along the Sirimon and Burguret routes.
Because of its proximity to the mountain, the town has many hotels including the famous Mount Kenya Safari Club and the Sportsman’s Arms Hotel. Just next to the Sportsman’s Arms is the Nanyuki Sports Club that shares a fence with the Agricultural Society of Kenya (ASK) grounds. The grounds also serve as a military training base for the British army.
Nanyuki abounds with a variety of great eating places including the oldest of them all – The Marina – which is still fairly popular. Several years ago, a restaurant was opened south of Nanyuki built inside a huge tree. Named ‘Trout Tree Restaurant’, its main attraction is trout prepared in a number of interesting ways.
Barney’s Bar & Restaurant at the Nanyuki Airfield, about 5 KM south of the town on the main Nanyuki-Nairobi road, is another popular eating place that opened in 2005. There is also the Simbas Lodge just near the Liki slum where you can treat your taste buds to nicely fried ‘kienyeji kuku’ (indigenous chicken) with fried potatoes.
Coming back to Nanyuki after many years, I see the town has transformed although you can still see some remnants of its settler past here and there. Shopping here offers a whole new experience with many of the convenience stores dating back to colonial times.
Now some of Kenya’s large supermarket chains are coming here but still for the nostalgic ones like me, stores like the Nanyuki Service Store or the Settlers Store, established in 1930, offer richness in history one cannot find that easily in Kenya nowadays.
The Equator line, which passes 6.5 KM south of Nanyuki, is a popular spot with tourists because of the supposed effect of the Coriolis force. The force makes draining water swirl clockwise or anticlockwise depending on whether one is in the northern or southern hemisphere but science shows this only happens in the lab, so what exactly happens at the equator if it is not the Coriolis force?
On the northern side of the town, as you head towards the Kenya Air Force base, is the Nanyuki Spinners and Weavers self-help group. The group of women here have gifted hands and can make beautiful carpets and other household items which they sell for a profit. They will normally allow visitors a tour of their workshops where one can see how the products are made, starting from carding, spinning and colouring the wool to the making of carpets, wall hangings and other things.
Nanyuki also sits on the edge of the massive Laikipia plateau, which is currently one of Africa’s most important wildlife conservation sites. The Ol Pejeta Conservancy, which is about 17 KM south of Nanyuki town, is a shining example of such conservation work. Here in the plateau, communities are encouraged to share their space with wildlife and learn to coexist together.
Did you know Nanyuki’s water is reputed to be the cleanest in Kenya? Its source is Mount Kenya from where it flows into the town by gravity.
Have you visited Nanyuki recently or lived there at some point? What was your experience? It would be nice to hear from you if you are currently residing there.
My Grandpa started the Nanyuki Settlers store!
That was truly a great place to shop. They are among the few landmarks of Nanyuki town i can remember having spent a great deal of my early childhood there. I hope it is being sold for better things. But either way, we must keep such memories alive – they are priceless.
Yes – such a shame that Settlers Stores is being sold
My granddad, Mr. Ali Guled, was the first African to build a stone house (now known as Lenana ) around the forties amongst the Indian community. All his sons and some of his grand children, including myself, studied at then Nanyuki Indian Primary School. Granddad was very popular amongst the Indian and African community. I am currently resident in London and my last visit to my home town was in 1980. Long live Nanyuki.
Indeed long live Nanyuki. Any photos to share of these times?
A very good story. Nanyuki town has always been this sleepy yet active town with so much to offer. Once i stayed at the Nanyuki Cottage but now sadly it seems that is another landmark in Nanyuki now gone. But at least the Sports Club is still there and golfing is as alive as ever.
I was in Nanyuki recently and stayed at Falcon Heights Hotel located just after the hospital. It is a new hotel with great rooms and excellent food and service.
Thanks Joe for the wonderful feedback, I am the Architect of the new Hotel. Welcome back.
Mike
I left Nanyuki in 1966 went to Nanyuki Indian school till 1962. I still have a school photo my dad owned a bar on top of Matthews chemist shop called new Kenya bar and restaurant. I have never been back, I reside in Toronto Canada. I still miss Nanyuki. I would love to hear from everybody.
Hi, am currently working in Nanyuki. The town is growing at an alarming rate. More people are putting their investment in this town. The climate is very favourable. the breeze from mount Kenya is quite enjoyable. Please make arrangements to pay a visit soon. Nice time.
Hi Babu. Thanks for this post. Would be nice if you could send us some of this old photos so we could relive the memories as they were.
I left Nanyuki in 1962 to India studied engineering in India went back to Kenya in 1973. Went to USA in 1973. I am in USA since then. I went back to Kenya twice. My father owned Patel trading store and Caltex gas station.
Hi Ashok,
I think we were both in the same KPE class. I hope you are well and lets try to keep in touch
Regards
chander
Hi guys, I went to Beehive school and Nanyuki Indian Primary School, My father’s name was Mr. Jalil Khan and he was the foreman of Marshalls, and a very good customer at your bar and restaurant, I remember we used to go and see old movies up there, the first horror movie we watched there was Frankenstein, I remember we kids didn’t sleep the whole night we were so scared. During my time at Nanyuki Indian Primary School, the headmaster’s name was I think Mr Patel, and my teacher was Hari Bhai Master, there was also a lady teacher who used to wear dark glasses, she used to teach standard 3-4 and 5. Still miss Nanyuki. Love to hear from everyone.
I am actually Babu’s younger brother.
Hi Yasmin, my name is Ishver you were in one of my classes actually and I believe you have a sister as well. I forgot your sisters name but I am sure you have a sister…
Hi Yasmin it is good to hear from you. I finished Nanyuki Indian School in 1963. Yes, Mr. Patel was headmaster. I know Haribhai. I have my school photo class of 1963 I will post it soon what year did you finish and where do you live now?
My name is Ishver Chauhan. I have 2 brothers named Raman and Babu Chauhan. My father’s name is Vanmali Kalayan Chauhan and my mothers name is Santaben Chauhan all born in Nanyuki. My father had a shoe store and a restaurant/bar over Mathews Chemist shop.
We have never met but we may know each other indirectly through our small community. Send me back a message on here if we may know one another.
Thanks,
Ishver
Thanks Ashok for this insight. We just love the discussion that has been happening around this article!
Hi Folks. It is great to see the comments that have come out of this story. Nanyuki, like any other growing town in Kenya has grown by leaps and bounds in te recent past. The roads are really nice and they now have Nakumatt which is really giving the old convenient stores we grew up around a run for their money – I recently had breakfast at the Marina – i do not know if it was me but it also seemed to be a wee bit shell of its former glory. If you visit the former suburbs of Second Avenue and Mela Singh, you will be utterly shocked – so much development is happening there. The former wilderness around the old St. Georges church is now gone and replaced by a great leafy community of posh homes for the rich. It was truly amazing revisiting Nanyuki after such a long time.
Nanyuki is such a wonderful place to be I can testify to that. With the Leisure Garden Hotel just 5 minutes from the town along Meru road and very new. The hotel has vast grounds for backpackers and camping, bush parties, bonfire etc., as you view Mount Kenya. Cottages and tents are available for accommodation. Did I mention we are the only hotel in Nanyuki that the famous Liiki River passes by our camping grounds with our guests allowed to do fishing!! If you want to be spoiled try us. Our cuisines are mind blowing!
Hi Juliet, would you mind us doing a review of the place one of these fine days? Let us know through a comment here. Thanks for stopping by our blog.
Of course you’re welcome anytime for i would highly appreciate that! looking forward to that.
If you want to see photo of Nanyuki Indian school go to the web page then photo and look up under our history
Hi Babu, just to help, we now have the photo you sent in our gallery.
anybody knows how to contact yasmin khan
I believe she was in my class
I left Nanyuki in 1962/63,I rememember yasmin,bipin misery,Chandu shah, Anju Patel I think her parents use to own settlers store,,Mr P L patel was principal,Haribhai Patel,
My dad was manager in KFA(Kenya farmers association) we lived next to Nanyuki
Hospital , road to airport,Nanyuki river was great place for kids,
Hello Alkesh and thanks for stopping by. Those are great memories to re-live here. So much has changed since then but with these memories, heritage is preserved.
Jambo ! I am Mamuda Mohd. Osman Allu Pannu. I often visit Nanyuki-my homing spirit is strong! Nostalgically, recall my very happy, care-free days at our town house behind our shop “Osman Allu”, Allus farm where my bro Yakub & bhabi Jena’s perpetual open house policy saw many visitors from near/far. United Stores, Jasu’s bros shoe shop (Where soles & souls were rejuvenated), Matthews Chemist, Modern Sanitary Stores, Settlers’ Store, Star Tailoring, Marina Bakery & Restaurant, Donnelly Motors, Nanyuki Service Store, Bapuji Kantilal Fulchand’s Store, KFA, Lalji Maharaj’s Sweet Mart, Jiwa Kaka’s Huge Posho Mill in the middle of town, Kassim & Sons, Mr. Shamshudin’s & aunty Malek’s Sportsmans Arms Hotel, Peter Demello’s parents Shop, Silverbeck Hotel, Mount Kenya safari Club, my primary school, ……Oh! I could go on & on…
Hey Maime. What great and beautiful memories you bring! I remember all these places and I feel you when you say you could go on and on. Thank you for stopping by and sharing.
Mohamed Ali Hirsy. I was in Nanyuki yesterday with some Somali friends. One if them Abdi Mahmood is the Grandson of Ali Gulled. I am keen on finding more literature on Ali Gulled. I would appreciate anyone sharing the Somali history of Nanyuki. Thanks